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1950s Patek Philippe Calatrava Reference 2545 With Tiffany-Signed Dial - HODINKEE Shop. Why This Watch Matters Patek x Tiffany is the ultimate partnership. But when you add a waterproof Calatrava case with rare lume plots, like the one we have here, you get the kind of watch that drives the auction room nuts.It may be hard to believe but the Air-King and its siblings were the first Rolex pilot’s watch, seeing as how the GMT-Master wasn’t introduced until the 1950s. .